tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6231841547435511043.post2508762624135802940..comments2023-06-13T01:05:30.996-07:00Comments on The Electricle™ : Bicycle Electric-Motor-Assist Project: Pedal FreewheelM.E.http://www.blogger.com/profile/15375034485988839284noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6231841547435511043.post-11815909054183822932009-10-17T13:03:12.559-07:002009-10-17T13:03:12.559-07:00Links to the Mk2 and Mk2.5 versions.Links to the <a href="http://electricle.blogspot.com/2009/08/pedal-freewheel-mk2.html" rel="nofollow">Mk2</a> and <a href="http://electricle.blogspot.com/2009/08/pedal-freewheel-mk-25.html" rel="nofollow">Mk2.5 </a> versions.M.E.https://www.blogger.com/profile/15375034485988839284noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6231841547435511043.post-3625981051721904392009-10-17T12:59:35.525-07:002009-10-17T12:59:35.525-07:00As for adding a wrench-type ratchet, if you mean p...As for adding a wrench-type ratchet, if you mean placing an actual wrench ratchet on a crank and using a socket adapter or extension to attach to the square-taper crankshaft, well, in theory it might work if you had a high-quality tool to start from. But buying a tool of that quality (because anything I already have would just break with the torque loads presented at the pedals when used by themselves) would cost me as much as buying an actual pre-made pedal freewheel crankset. ;)<br /><br />A large 3/4" sized ratcheting wrench would have to be used as the starting point, so that it would be able to take the strain at the square socket point. <br /><br />It would also require either welding or cotterpinning the socket/adapter to the square-taper shaft, as there would be no way to use the regular crank bolt thru the wrench as it is solid in the center. I am not sure the cotterpinning would work, even with two of them 90-degree offset and a distance apart on the shaft--it might just shear thru them, or snap the shaft or socket at the now weaker points where the holes would be drilled.<br /><br />Welding it on would prevent changing to some other method, or replacing the socket/adapter if it's square input hole was damaged (from the torque), unless the whole crankshaft was changed. I don't think the metal would last thru cutting off the socket/adapter and rewelding a new one on.<br /><br />Another problem is that there would be nothing holding the crank onto the socket/adapter except the ball-bearing socket retainer, so if there were any load pushing against that in a sideways direction, depending on how it's pedalled, it could slowly push the crank off. <br /><br /><br />Another problem is that of mounting the chainring itself. It would need to be welded to the socket/adapter, most likely, or at least a "spider" for it would need to be made that would allow that. <br /><br /><br />If all those things could be overcome, then yes, it might work. But it's easier to do it as I show in the Pedal Freewheel Mk2 post. :)M.E.https://www.blogger.com/profile/15375034485988839284noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6231841547435511043.post-45723605532807718022009-10-17T12:47:19.281-07:002009-10-17T12:47:19.281-07:00Yes, if you look at the Pedal Freewheel Mk2 post, ...Yes, if you look at the Pedal Freewheel Mk2 post, it has what I actually did. I did not yet complete it since I need to slightly machine the crank itself to circularize it, and it won't fit on my lathe. <br /><br />Then I just need to complete the adapter disk from the freewheel's diameter to the actual chainring diameter. I haven't finished that part mostly because of not finishing the first part.<br /><br />If I could do that part it would work fine. <br /><br />Of course, what I'd rather do is put the freewheel on the other end of the pedal chainline, where it joins the motor, but to do that I need to build a completely custom part to hold two freewheels onto the square-taper shaft. While I could make the part itself on the lathe, and hand-file the square-taper hole, I don't have a way to thread the custom part for the freewheels to thread onto it, or to thread the inner part so I can still crank it loose with the "universal" removal tool when I need to fix or change things on the bike.M.E.https://www.blogger.com/profile/15375034485988839284noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6231841547435511043.post-16476613695199779512009-10-17T08:33:19.450-07:002009-10-17T08:33:19.450-07:00have you gotten anywhere with the pedal freewheel ...have you gotten anywhere with the pedal freewheel idea? i've google extensively to find something, and thought you could add a wratchet / wrench type of locket to the bicycle pedal.<br />what do you think, is it feasible? my email's novembersierra28@gmail.comAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6231841547435511043.post-8240471663745158372009-08-25T21:08:54.945-07:002009-08-25T21:08:54.945-07:00Well, for various reasons (mostly lack of availabl...Well, for various reasons (mostly lack of available tools and parts) this particular version isn't doable. But an accidental discovery led me to a better version, which will be posted separately later tonite. :)M.E.https://www.blogger.com/profile/15375034485988839284noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6231841547435511043.post-6872743007663247622009-08-25T08:28:07.900-07:002009-08-25T08:28:07.900-07:00Redundancy is a great thing about these hybrid bik...Redundancy is a great thing about these hybrid bikes. :) As a last resort, we can always push them home (Done that with that flat and no repair kit onboard). Forget about that with a car.Joehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10265425172888920679noreply@blogger.com